Reflections on Cuba (Part One): land without billboards

The complete lack of advertising (besides political murals and slogans) as we bounced along the highways and back roads of the western end of Cuba during our 10 day acroecology tour in May was just one of the very positive differences between Cuba and the United States that I sincerely miss since I returned.

Ostensibly, I chose to participate in a Food First/Food Sovereignty Tour  because I've always had a strong desire to visit Cuba particularly after viewing "Power of Community," the video that introduced me to the urban gardening manifesto of the early 1990's. As a person who researches and writes about ways to end hunger, I realized Cuba is THE place on the planet to experience some of the best examples of organic food-growing systems at various levels of production.

It may take several posts to cover all that I saw and heard. I'm still digesting so much. I have hours of audio from our meetings with farmers, agronomists, agriculture experts, educators plus our amazing guide and translator. Spending time with family in New Mexico's summer heat has me dreaming of the white sand beaches in Cuba where we enjoyed not a few gorgeous sunsets and some not-so-weak mojitos. There was something to smile about every day in Cuba. The people smiled with us, laughed with us and enjoyed sharing what they knew, answering our questions however strange they sounded, and were proud to show us what they had accomplished in their particular locale. And what they have accomplished is nothing short of miraculous. I only wish our politicians weren't so pigheaded about the embargo....a 52 years embargo...that not only has failed to bring Cuba to its knees (as many hoped) but fails to bring to the United States a new and anxious trading partner just 90 short miles away.

The picture postcard town of Vinales beneath the 'mogotes'

While Cuba may not reflect a standard of living we might consider consistent with a wealthy westernized country, this island nation does provide for its people in ways we only talk about and which our government fights against: 1) all Cubans have some form of housing, simple or rustic though it may be; 2) all Cubans are guaranteed a free education through post-doctorate studies (and has a 100% literacy rate);  3) all Cubans have access not only to free medical care but high quality medical care. Many countries around the world send their medical students TO Cuba because of its outstanding reputation in medicine. In other words, the government provides for what it believes are the foundations for a nation to survive and has placed access to food at the top of the list. Because food is seen as a national security issue, Cuba has consistently altered its government policies to improve the way it feeds its people. Unlike most other countries where farmers are dying to have land, in Cuba there is abundant land available but not enough farmers! Anyone can sign on for up to 33 acres of land in usufruct for 10 years and renewable for up to 25. The catch? You must make them immediately productive. Some refer to this as "repeasantization" of the land and gives anyone with the stamina, the resources and knowledge the ability to have her or his parcel of land to farm. For free.

Cuba is much, much more than its very famous capital city of Havana and many have written about this lively and historic port on the northwest coast of the island. For me, it was spending the days visiting the farmers, members of the agricultural cooperatives and the innovators (like Vilda and Jose from Havana bringing the ideas of food preservation to Cuban households or Hector's finca where farming is an artistic extension of his sculpture garden and ceramics production) that excited me.

What deeply impressed me from farm to farm, was observing how the model of cooperation, deeply entrenched in socialism, has served Cuba well for many decades. There are many levels of training, resource sharing, and government research and information available, as well as support from other farmers, to help farmers succeed in their profession, part of the Campesino-to-Campesino movement brought to Cuba in the 1990's and now a foundation of the work of ANAP, the National Association of Small Scale (Peasant) Farmers in Cuba.

And the food! Each day's lunch built on the previous until I couldn't imagine we could sample or consume another amazing morsel of locally grown, organic, native food.

At the vegetarian restaurant  El Romero in Las Terazas

To truly understand Cuba's current agricultural accomplishments, it is important to comprehend what Cuban's call "The Special Period." What evolved from that crisis in the early 1990's fueled another revolution in food production that is now studied by food producers, agronomists, social scientists and farmers all around the world. This critical moment in history requires more than a short paragraph at the end of this blog so stay tuned for that and more photos next time!

Until then check out the video "Power of Community" on youtube, a documentary describing the Cuban Special Period and its relationship to a post-peak oil society. Now, for a mojito.....